Once a building has been exposed to a large volume of water, either floodwater or rainwater, steps must be taken to dry the building, assess damage, and plan for repairs and restoration. The information below outlines best practices for drying out historic structures as quickly and effectively as possible. Please refer to its companion video on our YouTube channel here.
1. Prioritize Safety Precautions
Before beginning any restoration efforts, ensure your safety and that of others. Assume power lines are live, turn off electricity, and check for gas leaks. Be extremely cautious of contaminated floodwater and sediment, wear protective gear, and consult with professionals if uncertain about a building's structural stability.
2. Make a Plan
Take time to plan, as overzealous cleanup efforts can often result in salvageable materials being carted away, damage to sensitive materials via excessively rough cleaning methods, and the unnecessary loss of historic fabric. The best way to prevent additional damage to historic structures and materials during a time of duress is to use caution, move slowly, and plan ahead.
3. Carefully Document Damage
Capture the extent of damage through photographs before cleanup. These records are invaluable for the insurance claim process, as well as for guiding restoration work once damaged materials are removed.
4. Remove Bulk Water and Prevent Further Water Entry
Bail water out of the building by bucket, mop, squeegee, etc.. If power is available, drainage pumps and wet vac systems can be hugely effective. Temporarily repair roofs and windows to prevent any additional water from entering the building. Plan these fixes to last at least six months. Options include tarpaulin, felt paper, or plywood covered with building wrap.
5. Remove Waterlogged Materials and Circulate Air
As soon as possible, remove wet carpets and furniture from the building, as well as impervious floor materials like sheet vinyl, linoleum, and LVP/LVT so that wood subfloors are exposed. Exercise caution if working with or near materials which may contain asbestos or lead. Begin controlled drying from the attic down, opening all available windows and doors to promote air circulation. Open all interior doors (attic door, closet doors, cabinet doors, etc.) or consider removing them from their hinges for reinstallation later. Remove drawers from cabinets and stack for reinstallation after dry. If power is available, utilize dehumidifiers to remove additional moisture from interior air, and place fans at open exterior doors and windows to exhaust damp air directly to the outdoors. Be cautious using fans indoors as this can spread mold spores and lead to uneven drying and warpage in wood floors.
6. Address Ceiling and Walls
Inspect ceilings and walls for hazards and trapped water. Drain ceiling and wall cavities by creating small openings. Remove any and all wet insulation. Approach wet plaster and wet sheetrock differently. Seek to retain and repair cracked historic plaster with plaster washers and use temporary shoring to support sagging ceilings. Remove wet sheetrock in rectilinear sections relative to its 4x8' sheet size. Gypsum-based plaster may not be salvageable if pillowy in appearance. In cases of historic interior wood panel wall sheathing or wainscoting, several courses of exterior siding may need to be removed to allow exterior wall cavities to dry.
7. Clean and Restore Interior Features
Remove mud and sediment from wood floors and rinse with clean water. Avoid rapid drying methods like forced-air conditioning or heat, which can cause wood flooring to warp. Enable air circulation above and underneath wood flooring if possible. Clean features like trim, mantles, and other woodwork with water and a simple detergent such as dishwashing liquid. Scrub lightly to physically remove mold and mildew from nonporous and painted surfaces. Hydrogen peroxide-based and sodium percarbonate-based household cleaners are effective disinfectants for contaminated surfaces. Avoid the use of powerful disinfectants like bleach--which is hazardous and can damage color-sensitive materials--except under professional supervision. Never mix household cleaners without first consulting all available safety data. Consult our page on borate-based wood preservatives for information on treating wooden building components after the initial flood cleanup is complete.
8. Access Wet Ductwork and Building Systems
Drying and cleaning ductwork, air-handling equipment, and electrical systems can be complicated and hazardous. Depending on its accessibility, rigid ductwork may be possible to drain and salvage. Flexible, insulated ductwork is less easily salvaged. As with fans, operating HVAC systems in the presence of mold can aid in its spread, so when in doubt, leave systems powered down and seek professional help. Electrical devices (switches, receptacle outlets, fixtures) may require replacement if submerged or wet for extended periods of time.
9. Treat Household Furnishings
Properly handle water-damaged furnishings, including textiles, books, photographs, and furniture. See FEMA guidance on salvaging historic and heirloom objects and consult an objects conservator if necessary.
10. Prioritize Controlled Drying
Finally, remember that controlled drying and unencumbered ventilation are key. Avoid rushing the process via portable heaters or air conditioners, as this can lead to warpage in water-sensitive materials and even exacerbate the spread of mold and mildew. Please refer to these additional resources from EPA for more flood cleanup tips and safety recommendations.